Since the Russian invasion began in February, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky has worn khaki clothing everywhere.
His followers have imitated his fashion choices throughout the eight months of the fight.
Even people far from the front lines have adopted the president’s khaki uniform as a form of communication.
As the head of the Ukrainian army, Zelensky could wear the national uniform, but he chose to wear more casual civilian clothes with military colours instead.
He has been donning khaki fleece on chilly days, cargo pants, and sneakers in the same colours since the first day of the battle, coupled with olive t-shirts that show his biceps.
Tanya Solovey, who studies fashion history and used to write for Vogue, tells AFP, “these are very cheap sneakers, signalling simplicity.”
“They say: ‘my country is fighting and I am wearing the same simple and convenient outfit as people who go down to underground shelters’.”
Army green has been widely accepted by the general public in the country since the February 25 announcement of mandatory military service for all males aged 18-60.
“Many people started wearing khaki,” says 30-year-old Denys, walking in Kyiv in a khaki designer jacket, “which is associated with our army, that way we don’t forget what is going on and help, in our way.”
Women’s fashion followed the trend of wearing only one colour, from nail polish to small accessories.
Svitlana, 62, wearing a khaki tracksuit to the city centre of Kyiv because “our times require it.”
“But not every day, that would be too repetitive,” adds the retiree.
According to Solovey, “khaki has always been a popular colour in Ukraine, for casual and outerwear, but it’s become more than just a style, it is the visual identity of an entire nation at war.”
She has been donning that colour since the start of the conflict in memory of her husband who was called up to the front lines and her brother who was killed in action in 2015.
“Camouflage is the only colour that makes me feel like I’m protected,” adds the 42-year-old accountant.
Rather than selling flowers or phones, most retailers in the country now provide military outfits for conscripts and mobilised soldiers.
Under Ukrainian martial law, civilians can’t wear uniforms or anything else that could be mistaken for one.
Those who break the law can be fined up to 3,400 hryvnias ($92).
Image Credit: Alexey Furman/Getty Images